This downtown restaurant, with an espresso bar dominating the front room, specializes in French bistro cuisine at reasonable prices. DC, MC, V. Closed Sat.

Chiaro
Birger Jarlsg. 24, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/6780009
SKr 250 to SKr 500
Stockholm
Eclectic

This elegant, modern restaurant is a short walk from Stureplan. The upstairs dining room, with a large circular central bar, is typically filled with a blend of businesspersons in suits and young hipsters. Downstairs is the Form Bar, where DJs mix the latest releases and up-and-coming artists show their newest works. The menu offers a combination of Swedish, French, and Asian dishes, from baked salmon to spring rolls. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Costas
Lilla Nyg. 21, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/101224
SKr 120 to SKr 250
Stockholm
Greek

This small Greek restaurant has been popular almost from the day it opened a few years ago. Its menu, and the fact that it's owned and run by a Greek expatriate, has gained it a reputation for having some of the most authentic Greek food in town. The feta cheese and red pepper mix is a great starter and the meat dishes come with notable twists, like the fried chicken livers served with green apple slices. If you're on a budget, take a window seat, order a beer and a Greek farmer's salad, and watch the people move through the streets of Gamla Stan. DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.-Mon.

De Fyras Krog
Järntorgsg. 5, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/241414
SKr 250 to SKr 500
Stockholm
Swedish

The name "Inn of the Four Estates" refers to the four social classes originally represented in the Swedish Riksdag - Nobility, Clergy, Burghers, and Peasants. The theme is carried out with rococo furnishings, church pews, an upper gallery, and a stone-flagged cellar dining room to represent the four lifestyles. Swedish regional specialties await you in this intimate atmosphere. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Den Gyldene Freden
Österlångg. 51, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/109046
SKr 250 to SKr 500
Stockholm
Swedish

Sweden's most famous old tavern has been open for business since 1722. Every Thursday, the Swedish Academy meets here in a private room on the second floor. The haunt of bards and barristers, artists and ad people, Freden could probably serve sawdust and still be popular, but the food and staff are worthy of the restaurant's hallowed reputation. The cuisine has a Swedish orientation, but Continental influences are spicing up the menu. Season permitting, try the oven-baked fillets of turbot served with chanterelles and crêpes; the gray hen fried with spruce twigs and dried fruit is another good selection. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. No lunch.

Diana Källaren
Brunnsgränd 2-4, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/107310
SKr 120 to SKr 250
Stockholm
Swedish

This atmospheric Gamla Stan cellar dates from the Middle Ages. During the first part of the 18th century the building was used as a warehouse when owned by Jonas Alströmer, Sweden's Sir Walter Raleigh. Today it's a restaurant whose menu draws on the best indigenous ingredients from the Swedish forests and shores. Try the fillet of reindeer with chanterelle mushrooms, gnocchi, and port wine sauce, or the black peppered tournados of beef with artichokes, beets, and a cognac-pepper sauce. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

East
Stureplan 13, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/6114959
SKr 250 to SKr 500
Stockholm
Pan-Asian

Just off of Stureplan, East is one of the city's culinary hot spots, offering enticing contemporary pan-Asian fare from Thailand, Japan, Korea, and Vietnam - served in colorful vibrant digs. Order a selection of appetizers to truly get a sampling of this cross-cultural cooking. East is a perfect spot to have dinner before a night on the town. AE, DC, MC, V.

Edsbacka Krog
Sollentunav. 220, Sollentuna, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/963300
SKr 250 to SKr 500
Stockholm
Swedish

In 1626, Edsbacka, just outside town, became Stockholm's first licensed inn. Its exposed roughhewn beams, plaster walls, and open fireplaces still give it the feel of a country inn for the gentry. The Continental-Swedish cuisine is reliably superb. The owner, Christer Lindström, is an award-winning chef; his tarragon chicken with winter vegetables is worth the occasional long wait. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and Mon.

Eriks Bakficka
Fredrikshovsg. 4, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/6601599
SKr 120 to SKr 250
Stockholm
Swedish

A favorite among locals, Erik's Bakficka is a block from the elegant waterside, a few steps down from street level. The restaurant serves a wide variety of Swedish dishes, and there's a lower-priced menu in the pub section. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed in July.

Fredsgatan 12
Fredsg. 12, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/248052
SKr 250 to SKr 500
Stockholm
Swedish

The government crowd files into this elegant, funky restaurant at lunch, the rest of us come at night. In one corner is a group of rainbow-colored lounge chairs that contrast nicely with the dark hard-wood floors and beautiful table settings. The menu offers creative combinations, such as rabbit taquitos with goat cheese and melon or asparagus Caesar salad with tiger prawns. When ordering a cocktail, choose a flavor like mint and sugar or lemon-cherry, and then an alcohol of your choice to mix it with. The restaurant's innovative menu and atmosphere have made it one of the most popular spots in town. And from the bar, you can get a nice view into the kitchen - always a good sign of an unabashed chef. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Gåsen
Karlav. 28, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/6110269
SKr 250 to SKr 500
Stockholm
French

This is a classic Östermalm restaurant: very classy, cozy, and costly. The Swedish-French menu is excellent, including such dishes as smoked breast of goose with apple chutney, grilled turbot with fresh beet root and spinach, and Arctic raspberry ice cream with blue curaçao sauce. The service is usually impeccable. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends May-Aug., Sun. Sept.-Apr., and July.

Gondolen
Stadsgården 6, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/6417090
SKr 120 to SKr 250
Stockholm
Swedish

Suspended like a long train car under the gangway of the Katerina elevator at Slussen square, Gondolen has a magnificent view over the harbor, Mälaren, and the Baltic. Swedish preparations of lobster and crab head an extensive menu; the bar is ideal if you come for drinks and a view. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Grands Franska Matsalen
Grand Hotel, Södra Blasieholmshamnen 8, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/6115214
Over SKr 500
Stockholm
French

From this classic French restaurant in the Grand Hotel, you can enjoy an inspiring view of Gamla Stan and the Royal Palace across the inner harbor waters. The menu changes five times a year, but the emphasis is always on Swedish ingredients, used to create such dishes as medallions of deer with shiitake mushrooms in wild-berry cream sauce. The lofty measure of opulence here is commensurate with the bill. Reservations essential. Jacket required. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed weekends.

Greitz
Vasag. 50, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/234820
SKr 250 to SKr 500
Stockholm
Swedish

Home-style Swedish cuisine is served in this classy and comfortable restaurant. Try the sotare (grilled Baltic herring with parsley and butter) or perch and salmon roe with sautéed white beets. The decor is revamped café style, with the once-stained wood paneling around the room painted burgundy red. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and July.

Grill Ruby
Österlånggatan 14, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/205776
SKr 120 to SKr 250
Stockholm
American

This American-style barbecue joint is just a cobblestone's throw away from the St. George-slaying-the-dragon statue on Gamla Stan. Next to Bistro Ruby, its French cousin, Grill Ruby skips the escargot and instead focuses on steaks and fish grills. Try the grilled steak with french fries and bearnaise sauce. AE, DC, MC, V.

Halv trappa plus gård
Lästmakarg. 3, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/6110277
SKr 120 to SKr 250
Stockholm
Seafood

This super-hip restaurant is exactly what its name suggests, two half floors, plus a courtyard. Owned by the same two guys who run Halv Grek Plus Turk (Half a Greek plus a Turk), the retro ambience harkens back to the '70s. The menu is fish-dominant, most of it with a Mediterranean flare. The staff is good-hearted and professional. AE, DC, MC, V.

Hannas Krog
Skåneg. 80, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/6438225
SKr 120 to SKr 250
Stockholm
Eclectic

What started out as an interesting neighborhood spot has become one of Södermalm's trendiest restaurants. Guests are serenaded at 10 minutes before the hour by a mooing cow that emerges from the cuckoo clock just inside the door. The range of flavorful dishes - from Caribbean shrimp to Provençale lamb - can get a touch pricey. Crowds won't slow down the consistent service or detract from the relaxed atmosphere. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch on weekends or in July.

Il Conte
Grevg. 9, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/6612628
SKr 250 to SKr 500
Stockholm
Italian

The attentive staff at this warm Italian restaurant near Strandvägen serves delicious Italian fare and wines. Tasteful decor creates an alluring, refined atmosphere; you can dine alfresco under cast-iron lanterns when the weather cooperates. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Il Forno
Atlasg. 9, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/319049
Under SKr 120
Stockholm
Pizza

You might not expect to find it in Sweden, but Il Forno serves some of the best brick-oven pizza north of the Mediterranean. Choose from more than 25 combinations, all of which use only the freshest ingredients and a tasty crunchy dough. The kitchen also churns out a number of pasta dishes and sells many varieties of Italian olives, olive oil, and gourmet goods. Sit outside when possible - the interior can feel a bit stuffy. AE, DC, MC, V.

Indira
Bondeg. 3B, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/6414046
SKr 120 to SKr 250
Stockholm
Indian

This busy Indian restaurant about a block off of Götgatanhas has an overwhelming 60 meal choices. The food is cheap and delicious and the service fast. Order right when you enter and find a seat at one of the mosaic-coated tables. The honey saffron ice cream is a perfect end to the meal. AE, DC, MC, V.

Källaren Aurora
Munkbron 11, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/219359
SKr 250 to SKr 500
Stockholm
Swedish

Extremely elegant, if a little staid, this Gamla Stan cellar restaurant is set in a beautiful 17th-century house. Its largely foreign clientele enjoys top-quality Swedish and international cuisines served in intimate small rooms. Try charcoal-grilled spiced salmon, veal Parmesan, or orange-basted halibut fillet. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Kjellsons
Birger Jarlsg. 36, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/6110045
SKr 120 to SKr 250
Stockholm
Swedish

Kjellsons is a bar first and restaurant second, but this doesn't mean the menu is short on high-caliber dishes (to say nothing of fine drinks). Appetizers include an excellent pea soup (a Swedish tradition) and a delicious avocado and smoked ham salad - most of the fare is traditional Swedish. And be sure and ask for a basket of cracker bread - it comes with a tube of the famous caviar. In summer there's outdoor seating. AE, DC, MC, V.

La Cucaracha
Bondeg. 2, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/6443944
SKr 120 to SKr 250
Stockholm
Spanish

If you're dining with a group of friends, La Cucaracha's cheap, tasty tapas are ideal for sharing. The restaurant bustles with people throughout the night and really gets going after 11, when the staff moves the tables out of the room for dancing. AE, DC, MC, V.

Mårten Trotzig
Västerlångg. 79, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/240231
SKr 120 to SKr 250
Stockholm
Contemporary

This contemporary, functional space is both a dining room and a bar. The short menu demonstrates the chef's imagination, blending multicultural recipes in intriguing ways. Try the yellow- and red-tomato salad with arugula pesto, and move onto the flounder fillet with artichoke hearts, asparagus, and a light grapefruit sauce. In a beautiful plant-lined courtyard, less expensive lunch specials are served. The staff is young, the service professional. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Nils Emil
Folkungag. 122, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/6407209
SKr 120 to SKr 250
Stockholm
Swedish

This bustling restaurant in Södermalm is known for a royal following, delicious Swedish cuisine, and generous helpings at reasonable prices; try the kåldomar (ground beef wrapped in cabbage) or the Baltic herring. The paintings of personable owner-chef Nils Emil's island birthplace in the Stockholm archipelago are by a well-known Swedish artist, Gustav Rudberg. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and July. No lunch Sat.

Örtagården
Nybrog. 31, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/6621728
Under SKr 120
Stockholm
Vegetarian

This is a truly delightful vegetarian, no-smoking restaurant above the Östermalmstorg food market. It offers an attractive buffet of soups, salads, hot dishes, and homemade bread - not to mention the SKr 5 bottomless cup of coffee - in a turn-of-the-century atmosphere. AE, MC, V.

Operakällaren
Operahuset, Jakobs Torg 2, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/6765800
Over SKr 500
Stockholm
Swedish

Open since 1787, the haughty grande dame of Stockholm is more a Swedish institution than a seat of gastronomic distinction. Thick Oriental carpeting, shiny polished brass, handsome carved-wood chairs and tables, add up to a ritzy, if a decidedly stuffy, atmosphere. The crystal chandeliers are said to be Sweden's finest, and the high windows on the south side face magnificent views of the Royal Palace. The restaurant is famed for its seasonal smörgåsbord, offered from early June through Christmas. Coveted selections include pickled herring, rollmops (rolled herring), reindeer and elk in season, and ice cream with cloudberry sauce. In summer, the veranda opens as the Operabryggan Café, facing Kungsträdgården and the waterfront. Reservations essential. Jacket and tie. AE, DC, MC, V. Main dining room closed in July.

Paul & Norbert
Strandv. 9, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/6638183
Over SKr 500
Stockholm
French

This quaint, romantic restaurant is rustic but refined. It's on the city's most elegant avenue, overlooking one of its most picturesque bays. Indigenous wild game - reindeer, elk, partridge, and grouse - is prepared with a French flair; fish dishes are also a draw. Reservations essential. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Pontus in the Green House
Österlångg. 17, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/238500
Over SKr 500
Stockholm
Swedish

After working for some time under the guidance of the famous chef Erik Lallerstedt - who owned this exquisite restaurant when it was called Eriks - Pontus has taken over operations. You can still count on traditional Swedish fare of the higher school, with a concentration on meat and fish dishes. Everything is well prepared, delicious, and expensive. For a calmer dining experience, choose a corner table upstairs; the ground floor always bustles. You'll be dining among Sweden's rich and famous. AE, DC, MC, V.

Rolfs Kök
Tegnérg. 41, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/101696
SKr 120 to SKr 250
Stockholm
French

Small and modern, Rolfs combines an informal atmosphere with excellent Swedish-French cuisine, serving three meals a day at reasonable prices. The lamb is usually a good bet, as are the stir-fried Asian dishes. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch weekends.

Saigon Bar
Tegnérg. 19-21, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/203887
SKr 120 to SKr 250
Stockholm
Vietnamese

With time-warp speed you are whisked from Stockholm to an American G.I. bar in Saigon, '70s trappings and all. Unusual dishes include Indonesian-style fish served on sweet and spicy potato hash and lamb cutlets with eggplant and bamboo shoot gratin. You'll never go wrong with the wok special. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch.

Stallmästaregården
Norrtull, near Haga; take bus 52 to Stallmästaregården, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/6101300
SKr 250 to SKr 500
Stockholm
Swedish

An historic old inn with an attractive courtyard and garden, Stallmästaregården is in the Haga Park, just north of Norrtull, about 15 minutes by car or bus from the city center. Fine summer meals are served in the courtyard overlooking the waters of Brunnsviken. Specialties include anka roti, (charcoal-grilled duck kebab). AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Stockholms Matvarufabriken
Idung. 12, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/320407
Under SKr 250
Stockholm
Eclectic

Although it's a bit hard to find, tucked away on a side street and down a small set of stairs, "Stockholm's Food Factory" is well worth seeking out. The popular restaurant is packed full on the weekends as guests young and old come to enjoy the exposed-brick, candle-lighted dining room and varied menu: Here omelets are taken to new levels with ingredients like truffles and asparagus. For dessert, try the hot banana and kiwi with melted white chocolate and vanilla ice cream. AE, DC, MC, V.

Sturehof
Stureplan 2, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/4405730
SKr 250 to SKr 500
Stockholm
Swedish

Sturehof isn't only a restaurant and two huge bars, it's a complete social, architectural, and dining experience. With wood paneling, leather chairs and sofas, and distinctive lighting fixtures, Sturehof offers a variety of eating and drinking options. There's a bar directly facing Stureplan where you can sit on a summer night and watch Stockholmers gather at the nearby Svampen, a large concrete structure that looks a bit like a mushroom. Inside is an elegant dining room serving fine Swedish cuisine and upstairs in the back is the O-Bar, a dark and smoky boite filled with young people listening to loud music well into the night. AE, DC, MC, V.

Tranan
Karlbergsv. 14, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/300765
SKr 120 to SKr 250
Stockholm
Swedish

A yuppie crowd frequents Tranan for its bar, which often has live music, and for traditional Swedish fare in its unpretentious restaurant. The stark walls and checkered floor date from Tranan's days as a workingman's beer parlor. AE, DC, MC, V. No lunch Sat. or Sun.

Ulriksdals Wärdshus
Ulriksdals Slottspark, Solna, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/850815
Over SKr 500
Stockholm
Swedish

The lunchtime smörgåsbord proffered in this country inn cannot be beat. Built in the park of an 18th-century palace in 1868, the traditionally decorated inn overlooks orchards and a peaceful lake. This restaurant is arguably one of the most expensive in Stockholm, but the impeccable service and outstanding cuisine make a splurge here worthwhile. Reservations essential. Jacket required. AE, DC, MC, V. No dinner Sun.

Wasahof
Dalagatan 46, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/323440
Under SKr 250
Stockholm
Seafood

Across the street from Vasaparken, and just a short walk from Odenplan, Wasahof has an authentic bistro ambience, but the cooking actually mixes Swedish, French, and Italian recipes. The pleasantly rustic atmosphere and good food attracts all kinds of culturati - actors, writers, journalists. Seafood is a specialty here, especially the oysters (the Wasahof's very own oyster club has more than 1,000 enthusiastic members). AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun.

Wedholms Fisk
Nybrokajen 17, Stockholm, Sweden
Phone: 08/6117874
SKr 250 to SKr 500
Stockholm
Seafood

Noted for its fresh seafood dishes, Wedholms Fisk is appropriately set by a bay in Stockholm center, on Berzelii Park. High ceilings, large windows, and tasteful modern paintings from the owner's personal collection create a spacious, sophisticated atmosphere. The traditional Swedish cuisine, which consists almost exclusively of seafood, is simple but outstanding. Try the poached sole in lobster-and-champagne sauce or the Pilgrim mussels Provençale. AE, DC, MC, V. Closed Sun. and July.